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Strawberry Plasticulture – September 8,
2003 (Monday)
Vol 4, No. 44
In this advisory:
-1. General update for Monday, September 8th
-2. Cover crops on sloping terrain
-3. Recent advisories on the web
9/3: http://intra.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/berrydoc/sept3_03/index.htm
9/4: http://intra.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/berrydoc/sept4_03/index.htm
9/6: http://intra.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/berrydoc/sept6_03/index.htm
-1.
Brief update for Monday, September 8th (somewhat cooler and drizzly
today)
After last Friday’s visit up to the mountains, today was spent
in the central piedmont region where we visited two Chandler plug operations
in the morning where both growers sourced their tips out of PEI, Canada,
and the plugs appeared to be very healthy. I also had several calls
from agents and growers regarding tips and plugs sourced from Ontario,
and the story here continues to be quite discouraging (see the recent
report - http://intra.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/berrydoc/sept6_03/index.htm).
I also encountered some additional plugs of Sweet Charlie today that
exhibited similar symptoms to trays diagnosed with crown rot caused
by Phytophthora cactorum ( http://intra.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/berrydoc/sept4_03/index.htm)
a week ago. Growers and agents should carefully inspect Sweet Charlie
trays crown rot symptoms. If crown rot is diagnosed in your Sweet Charlie
plugs, it will be important to inject Ridomil Gold 2-3 days before
transplanting through the drip system at one pint per treated acre
(for drip application to strawberry plasticulture beds covering 50%
of an acre this would amount to 1/2 pint per acre). A second fall season
injection of Ridomil Gold may be needed about two weeks later.
Questions from growers today:
Que. How should I be fertilizing my plug trays in the third week?
Ans. It is not usually a good idea to fertilize any earlier than the
third week. Drench the trays with 1 lb 20-20-20 per100 gallons each
week (in weeks 3 and 4) before transplanting (this supplies roughly
240 ppm N). This is also the time to inspect for mites. It is far more
economical to treat with an expensive chemical treatment when the plugs
are on the nursery pad vs. out in the field.
Que. I had to take delivery of my tips in the first week of August,
and my normal planting date is not until the third week of September.
How can I hold these plugs for such an extended period?
Ans. Essentially we are talking about leaving the plug about 6 + weeks
in the tray - this is not an ideal situation (we normally program it
for 4 weeks in a 50-cell tray) and you are going to have to be very
careful about watering and controlling botrytis. Plugs are best set
outside the greenhouse on gravel or a nursery pad for the final 2 weeks
before field transplanting (weeks 3 & 4), and exposed to full sunshine.
Since this is not a possibility in your situation, then try to achieve
maximal air circulation in the greenhouse by physically spacing the
trays apart by a few inches on all sides throughout the entire greenhouse
this will help to increase air circulation and minimize the dense canopy
effect that is so favorable for botrytis development. Also, on DAYS
14-28 we do 5 min of watering at 1 pm each day outside and more frequent
if hot (minimal leaching of nutrient is achieved with this program).
In addition to the extra spacing, be very careful not to over-water
trays that must stay in the greenhouse area for an extended period
(weeks 3-6). Also, check out these older advisories on Elevate for
for botrytis control in situations like this:
2001 - http://intra.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/berrydoc/sept17/index.htm
2002 - http://intra.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/berrydoc/sept18/index.htm
Que. Where can I get more plugs??
Ans. That is main question I’ve been getting all day and as far as I know
everyone is pretty well sold out. Most growers who need replacement plants for
plugs are turning to fresh dugs.
Que. When will the first fresh dug planting demonstration take place?
Ans. Right now we are planning a demo in Rockingham County at Terry Neal’s
on the afternoon of Sept. 17 at 2 pm (contact Kathryn Holmes, Agriculture Extension
Agent, for further details - E-Mail : kathryn_holmes@ncsu.edu Phone : (336) 342-8230 Fax:
(336) 342-8242). I will also be confirming with Caswell County on a demo for
Friday, Sept 19, 8 am. There is a possibility of a Virginia demo but we are
needing to make some decisions on that tomorrow.
-2. Cover crops on sloping terrain, dress land after fumigation
As soon as the land is fumigated and covered in plastic mulch, it is advisable
to broadcast approximately 50 pounds of annual rye-grass per acre over the entire
field to reduce soil washing in the aisles after heavy rains or irrigations on
sloping terrain. Some growers have substituted wheat for annual rye-grass. It
is vital to dress the land immediately after fumigating so that water can flow
easily out of the rows. The annual rye-grass or wheat can be spread the same
day you finish fumigating. If you are lucky enough to “catch” a nice
rain after fumigating the annual rye-grass will germinate and be up within a
week - this is very desirable for fresh dug planting as there is going to be
lots of washing in the aisles associated with continuous irrigation for approximately
one week. An alternative to annual rye-grass mentioned in the last advisory (Vol.
4, No. 43) is to apply straw mulch to the aisles before transplanting fresh dugs
to minimize washing and soil erosion.
On Tuesday, Sept. 9, we will be sending out a comprehensive advisory with color
photos on Fresh Dug Transplanting Techniques and Irrigation Requirements.
E. Barclay Poling, Small Fruit Specialist
Campus Box 7609
Kilgore Hall - Office 252
NC State University
Raleigh, North Carolina 27695-7609
919.515.1195
919.515.2505 (fax)
919.418.9687 (mobile)
web site:
http://intra.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/berrydoc/
click HERE
to return to strawberry advisories page
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